8. Hebron

Said to be the oldest city in the region still in existence.  Hebron is an active growing Palestinian city that mostly shows its age in the old city, an ancient walled compound in the center of  Hebron, in the middle of which is the Mosque/Synagogue that sits on top of the place where Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and their wives are buried, on the site of the burial cave purchased by Abraham.

Unfortunately, access is limited and when I was there, it was guarded by the military so that I could not get in.  Even photographs of "military installations" is prohibited and a small gate made of huge concrete blocks where stands a soldier with his gun is a military installation, so up close photos were not allowed. It is tragic that fear, suspicion and hate are cutting off people from learning and sharing their heritage.

In fact, the old Hebron is now a Jewish settlement, of sorts, with about 400 Jews living in quarters in or near the old city protected from the Palestinians by a garrison of estimated 1200 armed IDF troops.  In addition, the normal corridors and small roads that lead in and out of the old city, where once was a thriving market place, have been sealed so that there are only a few access points into the city and then only through check points.  For a while, arabs were not allowed in at all, although now, access is granted, however, the route Palestinians must take to gain access is so long and circuitous that they do not come in.  Result, the Palestinian merchants have left and whole streets which were once thriving markets are now shuttered.

There are some Palestinian merchants that are taking a chance on coming back into the market place.  I stopped to visit a merchant of carpets and fabrics and was introduced to his father, with whom I am talking.  He is a fine gentleman, considered to be a wise judge of the Palestinian people to whom many go for advice and settlement of family or civil issues, and, coincidentally, has a book for sale.  Hmmmm.

Outside of the old city of Hebron, where a more normal life exists for the Palestinians, shopping must include a stop at a shop like this for typical arab food staples, nuts, beans, herbs, leaves, which will become hummus, falafel and various salads and side dishes into which one dips pita bread. 
This day included a tour of Bethlahem, however, I will see this again on my Pilgramage tour next week.

Richard