19. And in conclusion.....

“In those days was Hezekiah sick unto death….Then Hezekiah turned his face toward the wall, and prayed unto the Lord,…”(Is. 38 KJV)

I have seen and heard and done much.  Mostly, I hope I have learned.  This is a land which has a story to tell….of ancient civilizations and their struggles of survival and for peace and of new young people hoping to share in the peace and prosperity promised for them to their ancestors.  This is a land with walls….ancient walls that even today carry the hopes and prayers of millions of people from all over the world in all its  cracks and crevices and new walls still being built to protect, divide, assimilate or exclude large portions of its population.  This is a land which is consumed with fear and distrust yet is the site where walked  the most loving and trusting man to ever walk this earth.  This is land that has been grappling with division since Abraham and Lot first agreed to divide the land into Canaan and Jordan. Today, division is still the dominant issue facing the Israelis and the Palestinians,  Israel and the West Bank, East Jerusalem and West Jerusalem, Jewish settlements and Palestinian refugee camps,  civil authority and military authority,  yet Paul, addressing the Corinthians but preaching a universal truth, said, “Now I beseech you, brethren, by the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, that ye all speak the same thing, and that there be no divisions among you; but that ye be perfectly joined together in the same mind and in the same judgment.”(I Cor. 1 KJV)

This morning we visited the École biblique et archéologique française,  a Dominican institute dedicated to scholarly and critical research into the Bible.  It is where the Jerusalem Bible (the French language Bible) was written.  It was interesting to hear about the level of scholarly inquiry, through ancient documents, such as the Dead Sea scrolls, and through archeological excavation, that continues to be improving our understanding of the sacred writings.

The day concluded with a peak at more museums, mostly in the Jewish quarter.

There is no doubt…this has been a wonderful experience.   There is no doubt that it was worth the cost in time, money and energy.  But it is time to bring it to a close.   When one walks through the old city of Jerusalem and is approached by a stranger asking for directions….and you know the answer….you have been here too long.

Today is the last day.   We conclude with a farewell dinner and then off to the airport.

I hope you have enjoyed sharing this experience with me as much as I have enjoyed sharing it with you.

 

 

18. The sounds of Israel

The Psalmist sang:

"Blessed is the people that know the joyful sound: they shall walk, O Lord, in the light of thy countenance.

In thy name shall they rejoice all the day: and in thy righteousness shall they be exalted.

For thou art the glory of their strength: and in thy favour our horn shall be exalted.

"Make a joyful noise unto God, all ye lands:"

Many visiting the Holy Land bring cameras...and well they should, there is lot to photograph.

But few bring tape recorders and that is a shame because the sounds of this land are as interesting and inspirational as the sights.

When standing on top of a high mountain, the only sound may be that of the wind.  John records that, in his preaching, Jesus referred to the wind, something the sojourners in those hills would know about, when he said, "The wind bloweth where it listeth, and thou hearest the sound thereof, but canst not tell whence it cometh, and whither it goeth: so is every one that is born of the Spirit."

As one walks into and through the old city of jerusalem, the shop keepers maintain a constant cacophany, hawking their wares, offering tea if we would come and admire their merchandise, yelling at the shop keepers across the alley, young Palestinian women properly wearing their burkhas which almost cover their full face talking on their cell phones and tourists and tour guides yelling to be heard in as many tongues as there are languages in the world.

As one enters the area of the Western Wall, the Wailing Wall, one hears the sorrowful petitions of Jews with their heads against the wall at the same time as joyful families come into the square singing and dancing to celebrate a Bar Mitzva.

Several times a day, the loudspeakers on the minarets of the many Muslim Mosques blare out the calls to prayer and muslims begin their prayers.

Christians gather in their several churches, cathedrals, chapels for mass...in all traditions, Latin, Greek, Russian, Armenian, Slavic and others, and all are open to tourists and visitors and all with full ceremonial propriety...many with beautiful music from organ or choir, all with the chants of the priests in their native language.

Some churches have special traditions, such as the singing in St. Annes (see the previous blogpage).  Some of the most beautiful and inspired singing came from the voices of groups that entered that sanctuary, sang and left, leaving behind only their harmonious echo.

Throughout the land, whether in the old city or on the Mount of Olives or where Jesus delivered the sermon on the mount, groups sang.  In the grotto of the Church of the Nativity a small group gathered around the place where Jesus was said to be born and sang Silent Night.

Our tour leader insisted that each time we crossed the Jordan river we sing a different "Jordan song".  Our group had spirit if not sonority and most could not remember all the words, but the point was clear, there is a river Jordan that inspired all the hymns, gospel songs and modern renditions that include its name.

Finally, there is the sound of love.

Admittedly, this is a land of much tension and division.  It still shows scars of its embattled history...from the 17 century BCE to the 1967 war and to today's continuing struggle for freedom, independence, security and peace.  Yet, to the person, everywhere I go, I am cordially greeted with a Shalom or a similar Palestinian greeting.  East bank or West bank, museum or restaurant, cab driver or just people on the street, I have heard nothing but the sound of love.

 

17. It all starts here.

Judaism did not start in Jerusalem.  It most likely started with the pronouncements of Abraham in the north as the tribes meandered from the Tigris and Euphrates to the valleys, hills and shore lines of Judah and Jordan.

Christianity did not start in Jerusalem.  Some might say it started in Bethlehem with the recognition by the shepherds that Jesus' birth there was something remarkable and prophetic, or it might be said to start in Capernaum where Jesus first began to preach and to heal.

Islam did not start in Jerusalem.  It started with the prophesies of Mohammed in Mecca and Medina.

Yet, here in Jerusalem is the focal point for all these religions.

Jews regard the old city of Jerusalem as important because here was built the temple that held the ark of the covenant.  Here was where King David reigned over the united Kingdom of Israel.

Christians regard the old city of Jerusalem as important because here is where the seminal events of Christianity took place, Jesus' crucifixion and his resurrection.

Muslims regard the old city of Jerusalem as important because following their conquest of this land in the sixth century CE, they  established a muslim presence and placed their third most sacred shrine on the top of the temple mount.

So pilgrams  from all parts of the world come here to worship, or just to see and experience it, or maybe just to see if it tracks with their reading of the Bible...or Koran.

Visually, the most recognized landmark in the old city of Jerusalem is the Dome of the Rock which sits on the Temple Mount.

Although it is closed to both the public and worshippers, it still is a shrine to which many muslims come, pray  or read the Koran.

There is a newer chapel at St. Annes which has a remarkable quality.  It has a pronounced echo, so that if the congregation sings, the chapel is filled with resonance which can be quite beautiful.  Our tour guide leads us in a chorus of Hallelulah...we sing a line...then wait....for the echo to return.   It was stunning when another tour group, which must have been a choir from a Spanish speaking country came and sang a hymn.  Then a Japanese group sang in beautiful harmony a Japanese hymn.

The Jewish community is well represented with synagogues and temples but, frankly, they feel that they have not been allowed full and equal access to their theological center.  Their center would be a magnificent temple on the Temple Mount.  Of course that would require the absorbtion or destruction of the Dome of the Rock and that is unlikely to happen, thus Jews are relegated to finding their center through prayer alone.

Here a few Jews are allowed to come up on the Temple Mount but only with police escort (in the dark uniform on the left with backpack and AK 47.)

Jesus was accused and tried before Pontius Pilot near the St. Anne's church. He then moved along the main street of the city carrying his cross.  That street is now called Via Delarosa and along the street are the stations of the cross at each of the significant way points in his journey from persecution ot crucifixion.  The Via Delarosa eventually ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where pilgrams may touch the stones where (according to the stories) Jesus' body was wrapped and eventually entombed.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is another example of different religious congregations learning to live together.  In one edifice are the Greek Orthodox, Latin Catholic, Armenian and some other faith groups.  There is evidence that they are still learning some lessons in cooperation.

As with all archeology, peeling back each layer of debris or stone reveals structures from an earlier period.  Here, along the Via Delarosa, a newer brick paving is peeled back to reveal large block stones that comprised the road surface of the time that Jesus would have carried his cross to Calvary.

And so ends probably the most interesting day of the tour...the day I saw that peoples of all faiths can meet in a common place and each bring their own prayer for peace and each take away their own blessing of love.

16. Gathering at Gethsemane

Frederick Weatherly, a 19th century English lawyer and prolific lyricist, wrote these words, now the favorite hymn, The Holy City:

Last night I lay a-sleeping
There came a dream so fair,
I stood in old Jerusalem
Beside the temple there.
I heard the children singing,
And ever as they sang,
Me thought the voice of angels
From heaven in answer rang.

Jerusalem! Jerusalem!
Lift up your gates and sing,
Hosanna in the highest!
Hosanna to your King!

As our group began our exploration of the world's most holy site from a beautiful vista on the Mount of Olives, a pastor of another tour group just to our right was singing in a sonorous baritone (that could be heard all over the mountain) the words of this magnificent praise to this extraordinary city that continues to live on despite the many attempts to destroy it or prevent its worshippers from making the pilgramage to visit and pray here.

All over the mountain side, in grottos or olive groves, on church porches and in lush gardens, tour groups, probably of separate faith congregations, gathered to quietly pray, sing, meditate, hear their pastor's sermon, participate in a mass, or just stand in awe of this miracle, a manifestation of man's recognition that there is a supreme and spiritual power to whom all men, in what ever form each finds most satisfying, must come to pray.

Our group gathered in the shade beneath a tree overlooking the old city of Jerusalem in the distance as our tour guide read passages from the Bible concerning the history and signficance of Jerusalem.

Our day included a visit to the garden of Gethsemane.  This little spot of quiet where Jesus finally saw the importance of separating spiritual being from the mortal, was our little spot of quiet to each individually reflect on how the life and teachings of Christ are helping each of us to find our more spiritual being.  This was probably the most satisfying twenty minutes of the trip.

But we did not stop.

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is interesting because it includes in one structure (although portions built at different times)a Church for the Greek Orthodox, a church for the Armenian congregation and a Cathedral for the latin catholic faith.  In the subterranean grotto, are the spots where Jesus was born, where was placed his manger and where the Shepherds came to honor him.

One of the highlights of the day was lunch.  Wait.  Don't get on my case just yet.  We went to a not to fancy mass feeding facility, one used by many of the tour bus companies, so we could get our shwarma in pita bread and a coke.

After our bus load came in, we were followed by a bus load of tourists from India, probably Hindu.  Shortly, a group of asians joined us.  Our Palestinian hosts served all of us, including Christian travelers of all stripes.  Why was this a highlight?  It made me think of the last several days traveling with Christian, Muslim and Jewish guides, through busy neigborhoods filled with a lot of Israelis, Palestinians, and Christians,  I had to wonder, with so much good will among such diverse people, how is it that that the leadership of Israel and Palestine haven't figured out where the problem is?

Maybe the answer is to be found in the Garden of Gethsemane.

15. Along the Trunk road to Jerusalem

Zechariah wrote:

"Thus saith the Lord of hosts; It shall yet come to pass, that there shall come people, and the inhabitants of many cities:  And the inhabitants of one city shall go to another, saying, Let us go speedily to pray before the Lord, and to seek the Lord of hosts: I will go also.  Yea, many people and strong nations shall come to seek the Lord of hosts in Jerusalem, and to pray before the Lord."

And thus we left the Sea of Galiliee and went with all speed to Jerusalem, stopping along the way at Beth Shaen, Jericho, the Sycamore Tree, and other waypoints.

As we proceed south from Tiberias, we pass through the Jordan valley, essentially along the Jordan river as it flows south from the Sea of Galilee. The valley is fertile and the farmers are eaking from the land, grains, fruits and vegatables, making the most of very limited water.   On the other side of the river Jordan is the country of Jordan.  Our first stop was at Beth Shean, a large tel (archeological dig) near Mt. Gilboa.  On a mountain top near the remains of the old city is where the last days of Saul played out, his early victory over the  Philistines followed by is defeat at the hands of the Philistines

Here our group hikes across the top of the Beth Shaen ruins towards the stairs, off in the distance, that lead to the top of the hill.  This is where Saul met his fate as the Isrealites lost an important battle to the Philistines. (I Chron. 10). 

This is where the little radio receivers we have been carrying come in handy.   Those stairs looked formidible, so I stayed up at the park entrance where there was shade and a  coffee shop.  I sat comfortably drinking a cappaccino, watching my tour mates climb the mountain and listening to the tour guide explain over his radio the story of Saul and the significance of this area to the unfoldment of the New Testament.  I love to travel.

In Luke 19 we read of Zacchaeus who climbed a sycamore tree to be able to see Jesus as he came by.   Here is the actual tree.

...a beautiful 2,000 year old tree, in the Jordan valley not far from Jericho.

With many of these interesting sites, the true story of what archeologists have really found and how they most rationally intepret their finds makes harmonizing their conclusions with the Biblical accounts a bit tricky.  Many of the books of the Old Testament were written by prophets who had an agenda....convince the people that there is only one God and that God saves us when we listen to God (probably through the voice of the prophets) and follow the mandates of the deuteroromic laws and the moral teachings of the prophets.   This means that much of the Old Testament may have been written up to 1,000 years following the purported events in the Biblical account and embellished, or even invented, to make a point.

For example, continuing our journey to Jerusalem, we passed by Jericho.  a recent archeologist dug deep into the location of the old city and discovered up to 23 layers of construction, different cultures, different eras, different architecture, different pots.   A lot of science went into dating the finds and from her data, she concluded that at the time of Joshua, there was no wall around Jericho.  WHAT?  No wall?  What about the parading around the wall with the trumpets? (Josh. 7, 7).  Probably an attempt to make a point by embellishing a story.

After pondering the problem of Jericho and stopping to look at some Herodian construction (his home and an aquaduct) we headed for lunch and some shopping at a glass store and then on to Jerusalem.  As we entered the city from the top of the French Hill, we could see a huge modern and growing city of 700,000 people.  We also saw the golden dome of the Dome of the Rock that looms over the old city as a beacon.  That will be our project for tomorrow.



14. Keeping Kool at the Kibbutz

For me this is the thirteenth straight day of traveling, rock climbing and sight seeing.   For those on the tour that just arrived, today is only the third day.    Since the itinerary called for some more hiking and rock climbing to places I truly would like to see but which are not really relevant to my purpose, I elected to stay at the Kibbutz and rest and relax.

The place was empty.  Almost every guest in the hotel had jumped on a tour bus and took off to go sight seeing.  There were only two of us left,  me and.....

...Phred.  The campus of this very pretty kibbutz is full of pheasant walking freely all over and calling in their loud voice.

Kibbutz Ma'agan is located right on the beach of the Sea of Galilee and not far from the city of Tiberias.   I think one of the reasons I chose to stay here today is that the weather is excellent, no clouds, hot sun....but remember, a good summer day at 200 ft. below sea level is a scorcher!  Rather sitting by the pool than climbing the rocks.

In addition to the beautiful swimming pools and the seaside beach are numerous fairly new buildings that house the guest rooms, the dining hall and reception area.

Meals are served buffet style and we sit at long, dining hall tables.  The fare is generous and good....not elegant, but certainly filling, balanced and tasty.   Everything is kosher, as one might expect, but the strict kosher laws make the buffet a little restrictive...beef is seldom available (of course pork is never available), even coffee becomes unavailable on Shabat and holidays if to make it requires pushing a button.  A little unusual for those of us used to an American fare, but we are certainly not going hungry because of it.

So today was my day of rest.  Swimming in the pool, catching up on email and blog, working on my papers for the MAP program, sorting photos and recharging batteries, mine and the camera's.

Tomorrow we check out of of here and head south.  Tomorrow night we check into our hotel in Jerusalem and remain there until the end of the tour.

So keep those cards and letters coming.

13 The Sea of Galilee

Where along the beach of the Sea of Galilee was Jesus first seen by his disciples following his resurrection?

Here....

....at Peter's Gate....or so the story goes.  We stopped at this church along the shores of the Sea of Galilee where Jesus is supposed to have prepared the fish for the morning meal and where he is supposed to have suggested that the fishermen cast their nets on the right side.  Pretty moving experience to walk the beach where Jesus may have walked. So we can argue that it wasn't here or up the beach a mile or so, but the effect is the same.  This really gives some substance to the Biblical accounts..makes the stories really come alive.

Where did Jesus go to preach the Sermon on the Mount?

I am standing on the portico of a beautiful church on the side of a mountain overlooking the Sea of Galilee.  Our guide assured me that the current scholarship properly places the sermon on THIS mount.   One can see the sea, the Jordan Valley and, nearby, the Decapolis (or ten surrounding villages), all the places from which seekers came to hear Jesus preach.

Talapia is a fish becoming very popular in the U.S.,  Here it is called St. Peter's fish and it is abundant in the Sea of Galilee.  It is a stretch to think that the disciples went to sea in a craft like this with diesel motor and marine radio, but remove the modern inventions and one quickly gets the idea.

We went out on the lake in this period craft.   As we sailed along from Capernaum to Tiberias, our guide read from appropriate scriptures and helped to increase the excitement around the story that is unfolding as we move from one important Biblical site to another.

This adventure is is greatly enhanced by the continuing story that our guide unfolds for us.  He is a brilliant historian and Biblical interpreter.  In addition, he is most entertaining and fun to share ideas with.

We have climbed mouintains, scoured rocks, prayed and held services in or near churches, photographed everything that did not move.  It continues to be a wonderful trip.