19. And in conclusion.....

“In those days was Hezekiah sick unto death….Then Hezekiah turned his face toward the wall, and prayed unto the Lord,…”(Is. 38 KJV)

I have seen and heard and done much.  Mostly, I hope I have learned.  This is a land which has a story to tell….of ancient civilizations and their struggles of survival and for peace and of new young people hoping to share in the peace and prosperity promised for them to their ancestors.  This is a land with walls….ancient walls that even today carry the hopes and prayers of millions of people from all over the world in all its  cracks and crevices and new walls still being built to protect, divide, assimilate or exclude large portions of its population.  This is a land which is consumed with fear and distrust yet is the site where walked  the most loving and trusting man to ever walk this earth.  This is land that has been grappling with division since Abraham and Lot first agreed to divide the land into Canaan and Jordan. Today, division is still the dominant issue facing the Israelis and the Palestinians,  Israel and the West Bank, East Jerusalem and West Jerusalem, Jewish settlements and Palestinian refugee camps,  civil authority and military authority,  yet Paul, addressing the Corinthians but preaching a universal truth, said, “Now I beseech you, brethren, by the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, that ye all speak the same thing, and that there be no divisions among you; but that ye be perfectly joined together in the same mind and in the same judgment.”(I Cor. 1 KJV)

This morning we visited the École biblique et archéologique française,  a Dominican institute dedicated to scholarly and critical research into the Bible.  It is where the Jerusalem Bible (the French language Bible) was written.  It was interesting to hear about the level of scholarly inquiry, through ancient documents, such as the Dead Sea scrolls, and through archeological excavation, that continues to be improving our understanding of the sacred writings.

The day concluded with a peak at more museums, mostly in the Jewish quarter.

There is no doubt…this has been a wonderful experience.   There is no doubt that it was worth the cost in time, money and energy.  But it is time to bring it to a close.   When one walks through the old city of Jerusalem and is approached by a stranger asking for directions….and you know the answer….you have been here too long.

Today is the last day.   We conclude with a farewell dinner and then off to the airport.

I hope you have enjoyed sharing this experience with me as much as I have enjoyed sharing it with you.

 

 

18. The sounds of Israel

The Psalmist sang:

"Blessed is the people that know the joyful sound: they shall walk, O Lord, in the light of thy countenance.

In thy name shall they rejoice all the day: and in thy righteousness shall they be exalted.

For thou art the glory of their strength: and in thy favour our horn shall be exalted.

"Make a joyful noise unto God, all ye lands:"

Many visiting the Holy Land bring cameras...and well they should, there is lot to photograph.

But few bring tape recorders and that is a shame because the sounds of this land are as interesting and inspirational as the sights.

When standing on top of a high mountain, the only sound may be that of the wind.  John records that, in his preaching, Jesus referred to the wind, something the sojourners in those hills would know about, when he said, "The wind bloweth where it listeth, and thou hearest the sound thereof, but canst not tell whence it cometh, and whither it goeth: so is every one that is born of the Spirit."

As one walks into and through the old city of jerusalem, the shop keepers maintain a constant cacophany, hawking their wares, offering tea if we would come and admire their merchandise, yelling at the shop keepers across the alley, young Palestinian women properly wearing their burkhas which almost cover their full face talking on their cell phones and tourists and tour guides yelling to be heard in as many tongues as there are languages in the world.

As one enters the area of the Western Wall, the Wailing Wall, one hears the sorrowful petitions of Jews with their heads against the wall at the same time as joyful families come into the square singing and dancing to celebrate a Bar Mitzva.

Several times a day, the loudspeakers on the minarets of the many Muslim Mosques blare out the calls to prayer and muslims begin their prayers.

Christians gather in their several churches, cathedrals, chapels for mass...in all traditions, Latin, Greek, Russian, Armenian, Slavic and others, and all are open to tourists and visitors and all with full ceremonial propriety...many with beautiful music from organ or choir, all with the chants of the priests in their native language.

Some churches have special traditions, such as the singing in St. Annes (see the previous blogpage).  Some of the most beautiful and inspired singing came from the voices of groups that entered that sanctuary, sang and left, leaving behind only their harmonious echo.

Throughout the land, whether in the old city or on the Mount of Olives or where Jesus delivered the sermon on the mount, groups sang.  In the grotto of the Church of the Nativity a small group gathered around the place where Jesus was said to be born and sang Silent Night.

Our tour leader insisted that each time we crossed the Jordan river we sing a different "Jordan song".  Our group had spirit if not sonority and most could not remember all the words, but the point was clear, there is a river Jordan that inspired all the hymns, gospel songs and modern renditions that include its name.

Finally, there is the sound of love.

Admittedly, this is a land of much tension and division.  It still shows scars of its embattled history...from the 17 century BCE to the 1967 war and to today's continuing struggle for freedom, independence, security and peace.  Yet, to the person, everywhere I go, I am cordially greeted with a Shalom or a similar Palestinian greeting.  East bank or West bank, museum or restaurant, cab driver or just people on the street, I have heard nothing but the sound of love.

 

17. It all starts here.

Judaism did not start in Jerusalem.  It most likely started with the pronouncements of Abraham in the north as the tribes meandered from the Tigris and Euphrates to the valleys, hills and shore lines of Judah and Jordan.

Christianity did not start in Jerusalem.  Some might say it started in Bethlehem with the recognition by the shepherds that Jesus' birth there was something remarkable and prophetic, or it might be said to start in Capernaum where Jesus first began to preach and to heal.

Islam did not start in Jerusalem.  It started with the prophesies of Mohammed in Mecca and Medina.

Yet, here in Jerusalem is the focal point for all these religions.

Jews regard the old city of Jerusalem as important because here was built the temple that held the ark of the covenant.  Here was where King David reigned over the united Kingdom of Israel.

Christians regard the old city of Jerusalem as important because here is where the seminal events of Christianity took place, Jesus' crucifixion and his resurrection.

Muslims regard the old city of Jerusalem as important because following their conquest of this land in the sixth century CE, they  established a muslim presence and placed their third most sacred shrine on the top of the temple mount.

So pilgrams  from all parts of the world come here to worship, or just to see and experience it, or maybe just to see if it tracks with their reading of the Bible...or Koran.

Visually, the most recognized landmark in the old city of Jerusalem is the Dome of the Rock which sits on the Temple Mount.

Although it is closed to both the public and worshippers, it still is a shrine to which many muslims come, pray  or read the Koran.

There is a newer chapel at St. Annes which has a remarkable quality.  It has a pronounced echo, so that if the congregation sings, the chapel is filled with resonance which can be quite beautiful.  Our tour guide leads us in a chorus of Hallelulah...we sing a line...then wait....for the echo to return.   It was stunning when another tour group, which must have been a choir from a Spanish speaking country came and sang a hymn.  Then a Japanese group sang in beautiful harmony a Japanese hymn.

The Jewish community is well represented with synagogues and temples but, frankly, they feel that they have not been allowed full and equal access to their theological center.  Their center would be a magnificent temple on the Temple Mount.  Of course that would require the absorbtion or destruction of the Dome of the Rock and that is unlikely to happen, thus Jews are relegated to finding their center through prayer alone.

Here a few Jews are allowed to come up on the Temple Mount but only with police escort (in the dark uniform on the left with backpack and AK 47.)

Jesus was accused and tried before Pontius Pilot near the St. Anne's church. He then moved along the main street of the city carrying his cross.  That street is now called Via Delarosa and along the street are the stations of the cross at each of the significant way points in his journey from persecution ot crucifixion.  The Via Delarosa eventually ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where pilgrams may touch the stones where (according to the stories) Jesus' body was wrapped and eventually entombed.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is another example of different religious congregations learning to live together.  In one edifice are the Greek Orthodox, Latin Catholic, Armenian and some other faith groups.  There is evidence that they are still learning some lessons in cooperation.

As with all archeology, peeling back each layer of debris or stone reveals structures from an earlier period.  Here, along the Via Delarosa, a newer brick paving is peeled back to reveal large block stones that comprised the road surface of the time that Jesus would have carried his cross to Calvary.

And so ends probably the most interesting day of the tour...the day I saw that peoples of all faiths can meet in a common place and each bring their own prayer for peace and each take away their own blessing of love.

16. Gathering at Gethsemane

Frederick Weatherly, a 19th century English lawyer and prolific lyricist, wrote these words, now the favorite hymn, The Holy City:

Last night I lay a-sleeping
There came a dream so fair,
I stood in old Jerusalem
Beside the temple there.
I heard the children singing,
And ever as they sang,
Me thought the voice of angels
From heaven in answer rang.

Jerusalem! Jerusalem!
Lift up your gates and sing,
Hosanna in the highest!
Hosanna to your King!

As our group began our exploration of the world's most holy site from a beautiful vista on the Mount of Olives, a pastor of another tour group just to our right was singing in a sonorous baritone (that could be heard all over the mountain) the words of this magnificent praise to this extraordinary city that continues to live on despite the many attempts to destroy it or prevent its worshippers from making the pilgramage to visit and pray here.

All over the mountain side, in grottos or olive groves, on church porches and in lush gardens, tour groups, probably of separate faith congregations, gathered to quietly pray, sing, meditate, hear their pastor's sermon, participate in a mass, or just stand in awe of this miracle, a manifestation of man's recognition that there is a supreme and spiritual power to whom all men, in what ever form each finds most satisfying, must come to pray.

Our group gathered in the shade beneath a tree overlooking the old city of Jerusalem in the distance as our tour guide read passages from the Bible concerning the history and signficance of Jerusalem.

Our day included a visit to the garden of Gethsemane.  This little spot of quiet where Jesus finally saw the importance of separating spiritual being from the mortal, was our little spot of quiet to each individually reflect on how the life and teachings of Christ are helping each of us to find our more spiritual being.  This was probably the most satisfying twenty minutes of the trip.

But we did not stop.

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is interesting because it includes in one structure (although portions built at different times)a Church for the Greek Orthodox, a church for the Armenian congregation and a Cathedral for the latin catholic faith.  In the subterranean grotto, are the spots where Jesus was born, where was placed his manger and where the Shepherds came to honor him.

One of the highlights of the day was lunch.  Wait.  Don't get on my case just yet.  We went to a not to fancy mass feeding facility, one used by many of the tour bus companies, so we could get our shwarma in pita bread and a coke.

After our bus load came in, we were followed by a bus load of tourists from India, probably Hindu.  Shortly, a group of asians joined us.  Our Palestinian hosts served all of us, including Christian travelers of all stripes.  Why was this a highlight?  It made me think of the last several days traveling with Christian, Muslim and Jewish guides, through busy neigborhoods filled with a lot of Israelis, Palestinians, and Christians,  I had to wonder, with so much good will among such diverse people, how is it that that the leadership of Israel and Palestine haven't figured out where the problem is?

Maybe the answer is to be found in the Garden of Gethsemane.

15. Along the Trunk road to Jerusalem

Zechariah wrote:

"Thus saith the Lord of hosts; It shall yet come to pass, that there shall come people, and the inhabitants of many cities:  And the inhabitants of one city shall go to another, saying, Let us go speedily to pray before the Lord, and to seek the Lord of hosts: I will go also.  Yea, many people and strong nations shall come to seek the Lord of hosts in Jerusalem, and to pray before the Lord."

And thus we left the Sea of Galiliee and went with all speed to Jerusalem, stopping along the way at Beth Shaen, Jericho, the Sycamore Tree, and other waypoints.

As we proceed south from Tiberias, we pass through the Jordan valley, essentially along the Jordan river as it flows south from the Sea of Galilee. The valley is fertile and the farmers are eaking from the land, grains, fruits and vegatables, making the most of very limited water.   On the other side of the river Jordan is the country of Jordan.  Our first stop was at Beth Shean, a large tel (archeological dig) near Mt. Gilboa.  On a mountain top near the remains of the old city is where the last days of Saul played out, his early victory over the  Philistines followed by is defeat at the hands of the Philistines

Here our group hikes across the top of the Beth Shaen ruins towards the stairs, off in the distance, that lead to the top of the hill.  This is where Saul met his fate as the Isrealites lost an important battle to the Philistines. (I Chron. 10). 

This is where the little radio receivers we have been carrying come in handy.   Those stairs looked formidible, so I stayed up at the park entrance where there was shade and a  coffee shop.  I sat comfortably drinking a cappaccino, watching my tour mates climb the mountain and listening to the tour guide explain over his radio the story of Saul and the significance of this area to the unfoldment of the New Testament.  I love to travel.

In Luke 19 we read of Zacchaeus who climbed a sycamore tree to be able to see Jesus as he came by.   Here is the actual tree.

...a beautiful 2,000 year old tree, in the Jordan valley not far from Jericho.

With many of these interesting sites, the true story of what archeologists have really found and how they most rationally intepret their finds makes harmonizing their conclusions with the Biblical accounts a bit tricky.  Many of the books of the Old Testament were written by prophets who had an agenda....convince the people that there is only one God and that God saves us when we listen to God (probably through the voice of the prophets) and follow the mandates of the deuteroromic laws and the moral teachings of the prophets.   This means that much of the Old Testament may have been written up to 1,000 years following the purported events in the Biblical account and embellished, or even invented, to make a point.

For example, continuing our journey to Jerusalem, we passed by Jericho.  a recent archeologist dug deep into the location of the old city and discovered up to 23 layers of construction, different cultures, different eras, different architecture, different pots.   A lot of science went into dating the finds and from her data, she concluded that at the time of Joshua, there was no wall around Jericho.  WHAT?  No wall?  What about the parading around the wall with the trumpets? (Josh. 7, 7).  Probably an attempt to make a point by embellishing a story.

After pondering the problem of Jericho and stopping to look at some Herodian construction (his home and an aquaduct) we headed for lunch and some shopping at a glass store and then on to Jerusalem.  As we entered the city from the top of the French Hill, we could see a huge modern and growing city of 700,000 people.  We also saw the golden dome of the Dome of the Rock that looms over the old city as a beacon.  That will be our project for tomorrow.



14. Keeping Kool at the Kibbutz

For me this is the thirteenth straight day of traveling, rock climbing and sight seeing.   For those on the tour that just arrived, today is only the third day.    Since the itinerary called for some more hiking and rock climbing to places I truly would like to see but which are not really relevant to my purpose, I elected to stay at the Kibbutz and rest and relax.

The place was empty.  Almost every guest in the hotel had jumped on a tour bus and took off to go sight seeing.  There were only two of us left,  me and.....

...Phred.  The campus of this very pretty kibbutz is full of pheasant walking freely all over and calling in their loud voice.

Kibbutz Ma'agan is located right on the beach of the Sea of Galilee and not far from the city of Tiberias.   I think one of the reasons I chose to stay here today is that the weather is excellent, no clouds, hot sun....but remember, a good summer day at 200 ft. below sea level is a scorcher!  Rather sitting by the pool than climbing the rocks.

In addition to the beautiful swimming pools and the seaside beach are numerous fairly new buildings that house the guest rooms, the dining hall and reception area.

Meals are served buffet style and we sit at long, dining hall tables.  The fare is generous and good....not elegant, but certainly filling, balanced and tasty.   Everything is kosher, as one might expect, but the strict kosher laws make the buffet a little restrictive...beef is seldom available (of course pork is never available), even coffee becomes unavailable on Shabat and holidays if to make it requires pushing a button.  A little unusual for those of us used to an American fare, but we are certainly not going hungry because of it.

So today was my day of rest.  Swimming in the pool, catching up on email and blog, working on my papers for the MAP program, sorting photos and recharging batteries, mine and the camera's.

Tomorrow we check out of of here and head south.  Tomorrow night we check into our hotel in Jerusalem and remain there until the end of the tour.

So keep those cards and letters coming.

13 The Sea of Galilee

Where along the beach of the Sea of Galilee was Jesus first seen by his disciples following his resurrection?

Here....

....at Peter's Gate....or so the story goes.  We stopped at this church along the shores of the Sea of Galilee where Jesus is supposed to have prepared the fish for the morning meal and where he is supposed to have suggested that the fishermen cast their nets on the right side.  Pretty moving experience to walk the beach where Jesus may have walked. So we can argue that it wasn't here or up the beach a mile or so, but the effect is the same.  This really gives some substance to the Biblical accounts..makes the stories really come alive.

Where did Jesus go to preach the Sermon on the Mount?

I am standing on the portico of a beautiful church on the side of a mountain overlooking the Sea of Galilee.  Our guide assured me that the current scholarship properly places the sermon on THIS mount.   One can see the sea, the Jordan Valley and, nearby, the Decapolis (or ten surrounding villages), all the places from which seekers came to hear Jesus preach.

Talapia is a fish becoming very popular in the U.S.,  Here it is called St. Peter's fish and it is abundant in the Sea of Galilee.  It is a stretch to think that the disciples went to sea in a craft like this with diesel motor and marine radio, but remove the modern inventions and one quickly gets the idea.

We went out on the lake in this period craft.   As we sailed along from Capernaum to Tiberias, our guide read from appropriate scriptures and helped to increase the excitement around the story that is unfolding as we move from one important Biblical site to another.

This adventure is is greatly enhanced by the continuing story that our guide unfolds for us.  He is a brilliant historian and Biblical interpreter.  In addition, he is most entertaining and fun to share ideas with.

We have climbed mouintains, scoured rocks, prayed and held services in or near churches, photographed everything that did not move.  It continues to be a wonderful trip. 



12. Caesarea, Megiddo and Nazareth

So now we shift gears.  Instead of a private car and driver/guide, we use a very comfortable touring bus with driver AND guide.  Instead of standing next to each other, the guide speaks into a radio transmitter, all 31 of us have receivers with ear bugs.  We can be as much as 500 feet away and still hear the interpretations.

Tonight we are at Maagan Kibbutz on the shore of the Sea of Galilee just outside the town of Tiberias.  Modest but nice facilities, particularly the shower after a "hard" day of walking the walk of the ancients as they built the cities of 3000 years ago.

First was Caesarea Maritime, on the shore of the Mediterranean north of Tel Aviv and Netanya.  A city built by Herod as a harbor to please Augustus and to facilitate trade with Rome during the period in which Jesus grew up and began to preach.   It saw many enhancements, particularly during the crusades and a palace for Pontius Pilot was built right ont he waters edge.

We then went to Megiddo.  Megiddo today is a very large tel, or mountain top archeological site that, upon excavation, reveals a very large and sophisticated city that looks out on the main trunk road from Egypt to Lebenon at one corner of the Jezreel Valley.

Finally, we went to Nazareth and saw the Church of the Annunciation.  It was built about 1961.  It is a very beautiful, but very new church, but built right ont he spot  where the small, and then insignificant, village of Nazareth was located when Jesus was born.

(for some reason, I am having trouble with transferring my pictures to my blog.  I will try to get it fixed.)

In the meantime, know that it is very hot at the Sea of Galilee...200+ feet below sea level...a lot like death valley but with water, so it is very lush.

More later.

11. Good Guides

Now that I have some time to pause and reflect on the Palestinian portion of my trip, I must acknowledge the valuable service of my two very competent guides.

In most countries where one visits, guides, particularly in Europe, are very well versed in the history, politics, art, culture of the lands they share with their visitors.   For the most part, these guides are licensed by the country after many years of rigorous study about their land.

My two guides were every bit as well versed about the land I was visiting.  They, too, were licensed after much study.

In Israel and Palestine, however, there are additional complications and one must have a guide familiar with how to navigate these complications.  ID cards, vehicle registrations, passports, which roads are permissable, location of checkpoints, location of shortcuts, are extremely important.

My guides were excellent.  I would like you to meet them.

On the right is Fred Shlomka who owns and operates Green Olive Tours.  He speaks excellent English (he lived in the US for several years) but knows the intimate details of the the Israel-Palesntine conflict.  Even though he is a Jew living near Tel Aviv, he understands and has sympathy for the plight of the Palestinians.  He has a lot of personal stories and local knowledge to share which adds color and depth to his guiding.

On the left is Mohammad Barakat, a muslim who lives in Jeruselem and who has family living in segregated Palestinian areas of the West Bank.   He is quite knowledgeable about the politics and even the law, legislative enactments, judicial decisions and practical enforcements and why they are not always aligned, which creates some of the anomolies one sees as he drives around the West Bank.

Although I spent more time with Mohammad, Fred organized the four day tour and arranged for me to stay with a a Palestinian family during the tour.  That arrangement was, in many ways, the highlight of the experience.  The family offered clean, comfortable, friendly and private accommodations in the European style but with the best of Arabian traditions and meals.  Fred also arranged for me to meet very helpful people at NGO's working in this field and interview them at length concerning their role, their observations, their needs and their perspectives in and of the Palestinian-Israeli question.

They enriched this experience in very meaningful ways.

Dick

10. The Nabob goes to Nablus

Jacob’s well is now located in a lower level grotto of a Greek Orthodox church in the middle of Nablus.

(John 4:5, 6). This is one of the few sites in Palestine about which there is no dispute. It was dug by Jacob, and hence its name, in the "parcel of ground" which he purchased from the sons of Hamor (Gen. 33:19). It still exists, but although after copious rains it contains a little water, it is now usually quite dry. It is at the entrance to the valley between Ebal and Gerizim, about 2 miles south-east of Shechem. It is about 9 feet in diameter and about 75 feet in depth, though in ancient times it was no doubt much deeper, probably twice as deep. The digging of such a well must have been a very laborious and costly undertaking.

Since this is the last day of my Isreali-Palestine Conflict tour, I was grateful to have at least one visit that related to the Bible.

Most of the day was given over to speaking with a worker for an NGO providing some assistance to refugee Palestinians in the Balata Refugee Camp,  His story and the tour of the camp was emotionally stirring.  There is a lot Americans need to know about the situation “on the ground”.

   This narrow alley way is all that separates families in this crowded camp, provided by the United Nations as a stop-gap measure to house Palestinians forced from their homes in the northern part of Palestine in 1948.  Now, 63 years later, these people, direct descendants of those who were forced to move, are still waiting for a resolution of their situation.

The story of the refugee camps is much longer and much more complicated, but suffice it to say, the story deserves hearing.

And for dessert…..Kneva.  hmmm, an Arabic sweet that is hard to beat.

A little of this and a little of that and you have a yellow flour mixture that gets spread on the pan.  Cover the flour with goat cheese and put on a flame until the goat cheese begins to melt.  Flip the pastry over so now the baked flour layer is brown and on top.  Liberally shellac the top with honey syrup and serve it up warm.  Hmmmmmm, good.  Kneva.

Today was Nakba, or the day Palestinians remember the 1948 day over half their land was given to the Israelis by the British.   We watched closely for disturbances that might affect our tour, but we were pretty much spared any inconvenience.  In other parts of the country there was some violence quickly quelled by the Israeli military.

So, I am now in Netanya for a day or two of rest before starting the next phase of this fantastic adventure.

9. The Road to Ramallah

Ramallah is a Palestinian city of some importance, one might say it is the capital of Palestine.  It is a newer city, did not exist during the Biblical or even later historical periods so it has no historic significance.  On the other hand it abounds in evidence of what has transpired since 1948. One can  see how a small Palestinian village began and the old homes are very present, although the city began to grow and now it is filled with high rise apartment buildings and new single family residences of some prominence.  The problem is that Ramallah and the roads and hills leading up to it, have been criss-crossed with Jewish settlements, huge walls and limited access highways that make it hard, if not impossible for arabs to get in or out of the city.

Robert Frost wrote "Something there is that doesn't love a wall, ".  He could not have known how on point that is today in the West Bank.

These walls separate Jewish settlements from the rest of the West Bank, preventing access to the Settlements by Arabs.   If they were isolated villages or neighborhoods with a wall and gated access, they would not be much different from American gated communities.  In the West Bank, these settlements are strategically located to deny access from one area of the West Bank to the other without having to go on long rough roads, not the efficient highways, going through check points, and in some cases, being completely denied access to land owned by Palestinians.

This road allows Palestinian access from one portion of the West Bank to another without having access to the better highways above ground that are available only to the Israelis.  This particular tunnel goes under a main route from Ramallah to other urban centers.

Mohammed and I share a late lunch at one of his favorite cafes. Grilled Lamb shish ka bob, lamb livers, chicken and roasted tomatos and peppers served hot with salads and condiments including yogurt and garlic, tszaziki (?) hummus and others. 

We also toured the Birzeit University, a fairly new Palestinian University of 9,000 students, predominantly women, with faculties in law, business, accounting, the arts, languages, sciences, computers and engineering.

I was fascinated to learn that all the classes are in English, largely because all the textbooks they use are in English.

The campus is built out with a lot of impressive new buildings.

Well, I am on to other things.

Richard

8. Hebron

Said to be the oldest city in the region still in existence.  Hebron is an active growing Palestinian city that mostly shows its age in the old city, an ancient walled compound in the center of  Hebron, in the middle of which is the Mosque/Synagogue that sits on top of the place where Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and their wives are buried, on the site of the burial cave purchased by Abraham.

Unfortunately, access is limited and when I was there, it was guarded by the military so that I could not get in.  Even photographs of "military installations" is prohibited and a small gate made of huge concrete blocks where stands a soldier with his gun is a military installation, so up close photos were not allowed. It is tragic that fear, suspicion and hate are cutting off people from learning and sharing their heritage.

In fact, the old Hebron is now a Jewish settlement, of sorts, with about 400 Jews living in quarters in or near the old city protected from the Palestinians by a garrison of estimated 1200 armed IDF troops.  In addition, the normal corridors and small roads that lead in and out of the old city, where once was a thriving market place, have been sealed so that there are only a few access points into the city and then only through check points.  For a while, arabs were not allowed in at all, although now, access is granted, however, the route Palestinians must take to gain access is so long and circuitous that they do not come in.  Result, the Palestinian merchants have left and whole streets which were once thriving markets are now shuttered.

There are some Palestinian merchants that are taking a chance on coming back into the market place.  I stopped to visit a merchant of carpets and fabrics and was introduced to his father, with whom I am talking.  He is a fine gentleman, considered to be a wise judge of the Palestinian people to whom many go for advice and settlement of family or civil issues, and, coincidentally, has a book for sale.  Hmmmm.

Outside of the old city of Hebron, where a more normal life exists for the Palestinians, shopping must include a stop at a shop like this for typical arab food staples, nuts, beans, herbs, leaves, which will become hummus, falafel and various salads and side dishes into which one dips pita bread. 
This day included a tour of Bethlahem, however, I will see this again on my Pilgramage tour next week.

Richard

7. An Amazing Day

As Fred, my driver/guide, a Jew living just outside of Tel Aviv, who was born in Scotland, lived for several years in the US, drove me away from my luxurious accomodations on the beach on the way to Jerusalem, I began to get a glimpse of just how incomplete my unfolding story of life in Israel is turning out. 

The life of a Palestinian is made very difficult by the layers of bureaucracy and restrictions on everything from housing, jobs, travel, schools, even praying in the manner of your own religious preference imposed by the Israeli government and enforced by the Israeli Defence Force and the Border Police.

To get to Jerusalem, a distance of about forty miles, we passed several check points that Palestinians could not pass, went by newly created settlements, cities created by the State of Israel but restricted to Jews and protected by huge concrete walls to keep the Palestinians out, other cities occupied by Palestinians surrounded by walls to keep the Palestinians in and a net work of roads that only certain people can use.

As we drove, Fred explained in great detail, the rules by which the Palestinians are obligated to live in this world.  The Jews have an entirely different set of rules that, frankly, permit a not to shabby life style.

P:erhaps a more detailed outline of what I learned about the treatment of Palestinians is in order later.  Only for now, just know that to get to the old city of Jerusalem is as challenging as the city is old.  The city is complicated by having to accomodate to the very special  traditions of three very different religions; Jewish, Muslim and Christian all of whom regard Jerusalem as the center of their universe, the home of their "mother church".

The golden dome is the grand mosque, the holy spot for Muslims, the western wall or wailing wall, a sacred spot for Jewish prayer and behind, the Mount of Olives.  Old Jerusalem is a fascinating stone record of history from 700 BCE to ...well...today....they are still building in the old city of Jerusalem.

After touring much of the modern city of Jerusalem in the afternoon, I was taken to the home of a Palestinian family where I will be spending the next several nights.  They are wonderful people, they have opened their home to me and made me feel comfortable.

This blog will require some expansion to discuss what all I have learned from this day, but it will have to wait until tomorrow.





6. A Day of Ease in Tel Aviv

One of my "reads" (see blog #2), Jerome Murphy-O'Connor, suggests that Tel Qasile, an archeological dig located inside the campus of Eretz-Israel Museum, is worth a visit so I dedicated this day to a visit to what the tourism promoters call the most wonderful museum in Israel.

Indeed, the Museum sits on a very picturesque large plat of several hectares near the Tel Aviv University and includes many separate buildings, each with its own special exhibit, one on postage, one on glass making, one on ancient pottery, one that houses olive presses, another that houses dioramic exhibits of crafts (carpentry, metal work, etc.) with the tools of the period (although it was not clear what the period was).

Some of the buildings are quite well done architecturally, but, frankly the curation of the museum as a whole leaves a lot to be desired.  Maybe it is the season of the year, maybe the budget, but the place is not well groomed...nice landscaping, overall, but not well cared for.  The available descriptions are in Hebrew and English but very minimal and there is no walking catalog of their collections in English available for use or purchase.  I did have free run of the whole campus without guides, docents or attendants.

The Tel was not being worked.  That could be because typically, archeological digs are worked during the college summer break and, this early in May, the University archeological project teams that work these digs are not here yet.  The Tel appears to be the remnants of a small Philistine community, likely about C 12 BCE.

Here are the remains of shops and housing at a location on the top of the hill overlooking modern Tel Aviv.  Below is an excavation of three temples, a lower, a middle and an upper.  This picture captures the middle level temple.

One has to be amazed at the patience and persistence of the archeological teams that clean away the debris to reveal these remarkable structures, but more importantly, one has to be in awe of the archticectural prowess of the people who designed and built these structures, essentially out of the stones and sands of the desert in which they found themselves.   In another part of the museum was a display of the pots made during these times.  They, too, reflect a pretty capable cadre of craftsmen and artisans that produced them.

My visit to Tel Aviv is about over.  When I write next it will be from near Jerusalem.  I finished a paper which reviewed one other of my "reads", Caplan's analysis of the Israel-Palestine Conflict.  It is too early in my visit to be coming to conclusions about the conflict, but I can say that Caplan presented a very balanced and factual presentation of the issues.  I can also say that it is a lot easier to grasp some of the points he makes when you can look out your window and see what he is talking about.

So, Shalom.

Dick

 

5. Independence Day in Tel Aviv

So who knew?

Today is Independence Day in Israel (yesterday was Memorial Day).and today the city went nuts.  It started last night with a wild fireworks display, in fact several, all over the city...the largest upon a hill east of Downtown Tel Aviv.  This morning most of the rules as to opening hours and reservations at the museums were set aside and all the locals teamed into the museums...not so good for tourists.

I started my morning by going to the Independence Museum, where David Ben Gurion read the Declaration of Independence on May 14, (old calendar) 10 (current calendar), 1948, which both severed the umbilical with Great Brittain, and unleashed the 1948 war.  The museum is in the former home of Mieir Dizengoff, the first Mayor of and a benefactor to the city.

Today, the old home of Dizengoff stands much renovated and converted to the museum.  The real attraction for me was the Beit Hatanach (Bible museum) which turned out to be on the second and third floor of this building.  Frankly, it was not what I expected and very dissappointing.  I was hoping for some real artifacts relating to the establishment of the Jewish Bible (The Tenach) but instead found a weak collection of recent art depicting renditions of the old Bible stories, some models of old temples, a mostly humorous model of Noah's ark and a dark room in which they were showing....are you ready? ...the movie Exodus starring Charlton Heston, E.G. Robinson, Yul Brenner and the gang...with Hebrew subtitles.

So back to my hotel.  I arrive just in time to see passing before us in the sea just off the beach, elements of the Israeli Navy passing in parade followed by a huge flotilla of private boats from the local boat harbor.  Reminded me of 4th of July in Seward.  Overhead, squadrons of Israeli Air Force assets, Helicopters, fighter jets, etc., flew by...not unlike Bastille Day in Paris.

So, pride in one's country, appreciation of freedom and independence, is a human feeling that is felt similarly around the world among those who have freedom, independence and are proud of their homeland.

Certainly makes it seem valuable to find ways for those who do not yet have the cause for such feelings to reach their goal of finding freedom, independence and pride in a homeland.

Dick

4. Memorial Day in Tel Aviv

Memorial Day in Tel Aviv...most all government buildings and museums are closed.  The Dan tour bus was operating and it was a terrific overview of the city.

The tour lasted about an hour and half and gave a really good overview of its history, culture, architecture and significant places to go back and visit.


The first vestiges of this city (except for Joppa) began to appear in the early 1900's, long after much of the Biblical history and even the more recent history of Israel took place.  Most all of the buildings and landmarks are post 1948 so the city has a new appearance even though there clearly are some poorer neighborhoods and much of its cultural and economic importance is post statehood.


One is first struck with the freedom and unusual expression in its commercial architecture.

Above is the Israel Philharmonic concert hall, part of a larger cultural complex, and below is an unusual assemblage, called Azrieli Towers, three office buildings in the shape of a square, a triangle and a circle. IBM has a building in the shape of an old IBM punch card.


Other than the skyscrapers which fill the skyline, the more traditional architecture and the "look and feel" of the city reminds me a lot of Paris, although there is a lot of Russian influence as well.  Through out the city are specialized shopping areas, particularly, on Rehov Mieir Dizendoff where there is a large and probably the first, shopping center in Tel Aviv.  Several parts of the city have small boutique fashion centers with all the elegant brands represented.


As in any rapidly growing urban area, there is traffic, sirens, screaming taxis, lots of people walking, shopping, and lots of small shops selling.


Tel Aviv has a very large University, several large beautiful parks and some very important museums.  Because today is a holiday, museums will have to wait until tomorrow.


So, I got an early start today on my blog.  Hope you are enjoying it as much as I am enjoying learning about this fascinating land.


Dick